Radio shack 22-168 software

I've got the Metex which has served me well for the last 13 years. I think Metex meters were quite good for the money but have nearly vanished completely in the last few years. They used to be big with the large electronics chains like RadioShack or Conrad here in Germany. Conrad has switched to rebaged Uni-T's and other Chinese cheapies. Hydrawerk Super Contributor Posts: Country:. What's the purpose of the PTC1 thermistor?

Their website still exists, but it looks like frozen in time or what. Somebody gave me this old machine, too. The capacitor meter is broken, but otherwise the instrument is OK. Amazing machines.

As you can imagine, several of us on the merchandising staff were hams. We were in a unique position to "pay back" our great hobby by making reasonably-priced and decent gear available to the new no-code Techs. From December through July , I was responsible for RadioShack's "series" component parts and accessories and the "series" test equipment, power supplies, radar detectors, and specialized radio equipment CB and scanners were handled by another great buyer and ham.

One caution: the length of the two screws that hold the belt clip to an back of the HTX or is critical. If they are too long, the screws will contact the circuit board inside the radio and short things out.

Make sure your screws are the appropriate length or you will have some serious problems. Since RadioShack as abandoned their amateur radio customers does anyone know of anyone that services any of the RadioShack branded amateur radios? I'll be happy to put a pointer here. The accessories made for the Maxon fit the and just fine. A few keystrokes opens it up to MHz.

As easy as it is to do, why not? The extra coverage can be useful sometimes, for example in 2m transmitter hunts By listening there I can walk up to within a few feet of the fox. A"cheat sheet" for the HTX Also applicable to the HTX if you mentally replace the s and s with or if you've read the article immediately above and This is a local at www.

I decided to put a local copy here at repeater-builder just in case Barry's web site went away completely. When you power up your HTX the internal microprocessor runs a self-check routine that among other things does a sanity check on the radios configuration i. All of this is held in a section of RAM that is powered by a coin cell. The self-check routine looks for scrambled data, and if found, stops everything and displays the dreaded "ER 1" code. Personally, I think there is a bug in the programming in the firmware because I've had three of these radios and all seem to get scrambled RAM now and then, even after I've replaced the coin cell.

To clear the "ER 1" error you have to give the radio its own version of the three-finger salute: turn the radio on while holding down the button above the PTT bar and the "D" button on the keyboard. This totally wipes the memory, then you get to reload all the memory channels. One nice thing about the HTX and is that on squelched receive they draw only about 20 milliamps and a single set of penlight cells will last a week of receiving.

Most newer HTs draw ma or more and with the smaller and smaller size HTs the batteries get smaller also. I have the penlight packs for the radios as well as ni-cads, plus spare antennas in the kit. I really like the fact that the antenna connector is a common BNC as that makes the antenna situation very flexible - a rubber duck for close in work, a foot BNC extension cord when needed, a mag mount on a large steel pizza pan tossed on the roof for outlying areas, or even a small beam antenna if needed.

Another nice feature is that it has a better receiver with a real front end Battery packs for the and are still available from the Batteries America Radio Shack page. Their choices include their own 1. The original "wall wart" charger part number is The label on the stock charger says "DC12V mA" and the connector is center pin positive. Yes, it will take 10 hours to recharge the battery, but you won't cook the cells. My battery packs last a lot longer. At least it didn't in mine! I had to replace the final output transistor in mine because of a bad antenna.

If anybody has a paper copy we can borrow we'd appreciate the chance to get it scanned into a nice sharp PDF file with wide-page images for the pull-out schematic pages.

Thats a big help For what it's worth the ER1 is an easy fix, see the article above about replacing the coin cell. The bulbs are 6. As of Nov Mouser has them in in stock - they are made by both Chicago Miniature and by JKL Components as part number and are rated at 10, hours. The JKL data sheet is here and Mouser's web page is here if they haven't moved it.

Or you can replace the bulbs with white LEDs - but if you do you that you may have to change the series resistors. There are seven sets of two ohm surface mount resistors in parallel that are involved. In January , Larry sent us an update: Previously I had identified Mouser part number as a correct replacement for the display backlight lamps in the radio. I just received those lamps and discovered they are NOT correct, in that they are 5 mm in diameter rather than the correct 3 mm.

After investigating, I found that the Mouser online catalog is incorrect. As a result, the information I provided earlier is incorrect. I did some more research, and have now found what looks like a correct replacement now. It is available at www. The HTX radio takes seven lamps. Interestingly enough, the photos are of a unit with the "RadioShack" name on it. Manual Conventions Owner's Manual 1. It was manufactured by Albrecht, who made a similar unit for Icom.

A clipping from the catalog 1. Anybody have the Service Manual? We can scan one if necessary. Hints and Tips. Power options. Parts list. Pro Scanner The Pro scanner model number was introduced in and for a long time was their only portable scanner where the "UHF" band was MHz instead of MHz they marketed the addition as adding military aircraft coverage , and "low band" was MHz instead of MHz.

Yes, not only did it cover 6 meters but it also covers amateur MHz right out of the box. And it doesn't need a special battery pack - you can use either penlight nicads or penlight alkaline batteries.

And if you do put rechargeables in it, you will find a charger jack already installed in the side of the unit waiting for you! This unit was the first portable triple conversion scanner from RS and the first to come with AM mode selectable on bands other than the aircraft band.

By the way, the Motorola GP handheld balistic nylon radio case is an absolutely perfect fit anybody have the Moto part number? I'll add it here. Pro Scanner The Pro scanner was one of the first decent programmable scanners.

It uses the so-called "Motorola" antenna jack for the external antenna and the adapters are a little hard to find RS does offer a Motorola-to-female-BNC adapter, part number , and your store can get it if they don't normally stock it. Some folks have ended up ignoring the stock antenna jack and adding a BNC next to it, or removing it outright and using the hole for a replacement BNC jack. The screw-in rod antenna uses a metric thread and as a replacement part is pure unobtanium in the USA.

If your local public service agencies run conventional as opposed to trunked or P25 digital modulation , it's a good-sounding inexpensive programmable unit to park on some local channels. As they say, it's better than nothing. Pro Scanner The PRO was the predecessor to the series of scanners and in late early was the top of the line and the price reflected that and as a result it didn't sell very well , plus it scanned at a rate of only 8 channels per second where the competition did 15 to 16 per second.

It offered 50 memory channels and covered low band MHz or MHz, depending on the country , MHz AM Aircraft, MHz various , the 2m Amateur and high band, commercial and public safety, MHz Government band, MHz amateur band plus connercial , plus and this was unusual the FM broadcast band. The packaging was almost identical to the future PRO, but the keyboard labeling was poor. Owner's Manual 1.

Introduced in mid-late Has channels in 10 banks of 30, backed up by conventional 9 volt alkaline battery. Any channel can be designated the priority channel. There is a tape recorder output jack on the back which provides mV of audio at about 10, ohms impedance.

There is a design oversight in all three models - the audio level of AM signals is somewhat below that of NBFM signals, requiring a different setting of the volume control. A trimpot or two in the audio mixer that combines the outputs of both detectors can be added, but a bit more care in the initial design would have precluded that necessity. One popular mod makes the unit portable by removing the power transformer and replacing it with a 12v gell-cell.

There are some cosmetic differences like the keyboard layout, but the internal electronics design is very similar across the three receivers. The major differences were physical packaging and the position of a few diodes in the configuration matrix plus: The The model was introduced in late and nearly 45, were sold until until it was discontinued in early It had a metal case, good internal construction and shielding, but was designed as a table top unit, there no way to add a mobile mounting bracket.

It was artifically limited in the number of channels it could listen to and had a slower scanning speed. You could cut a diode and get the channels of the but the channel numbering on the channel keyboard which was not backlit would be confusing.

Cutting another diode got the faster scanning speed of the Adding either a COS or a TS32 PL decoder or both was easy - in fact a Pro was my across-the-garage link receiver or remote base receiver for repeater experimentation for several years.

You can improve the squelch action by replacing R 47K with a K resistor. Anyone have a scan? One common problem with the PRO involves the memory backup battery circuit. The 9v Alkaline is the only thing keepng the memory alive. Sometimes the low battery warning keeps activating even when a fresh battery is installed. Memory loss when the radio is unplugged is also a symptom of the same problem.

Make sure the contacts on the battery connector are tight. The snaps widen and lose contact, and you can squeeze them gently with a pliers to tighten them. Unplug the AC cord from power and remove the battery. After a few minutes, insert a good battery, plug the power cord back in the wall and perform a full reset according to the owners instruction manual.

Check the through-board solder joint at connector CN6, pin 3. Check the wires from the battery connector to the printed circuit board for continuity. If a new battery goes dead after just a few days, it is likely that the memory regulator has gone bad. The regulator is in a TO package and looks like a small transistor with three leads. It is labeled IC9 on the printed circuit board. Professional Electron Wrangler.

Any comments, or points of view expressed, are my own and not endorsed , induced or compensated by my employer s. Photos are unavailable. Vgkid Super Contributor Posts: Country:. Quote from: Hydrawerk on April 14, , pm. If you own any North Hills Electronics gear, message me. Pages: [ 1 ] Go Up. There was an error while thanking. SMF 2. EEVblog on Youtube.